Istanbul: From Arrival to Exploration May 2021

Arrival

As soon as I landed, I felt the warmth of the sun, a pleasant change from Denmark. After going through passport control at Sabiha Gokcen Airport, I headed to the ATMs to withdraw cash using my Transferwise or Wise multi-currency card, which I highly recommend due to its low conversion fees for various currencies. At the gate, two shuttle guys were waiting for me, even though I had booked a private car, the best way to reach the city from this airport. Unfortunately, I had to wait for 20 minutes until all the other clients arrived.

Once I was assigned a driver, we hit the highway, and what Google predicted as a 45-minute drive turned into 90 minutes due to heavy traffic. During the drive, I noticed some interesting things about Turkey, like how cars often overtake on the emergency lane or people park to chat with friends or have picnics on well-maintained lawns. The traffic jams were partly caused by rush hour and several accidents that hindered the flow of cars. Another striking sight was the huge shopping malls visible from the highway.

The City

Upon entering Istanbul, crossing the bridge that connects the Asian and European parts, I arrived in Besiktas, a famous area for football fans, and from here, the vibrancy of the city becomes evident. Every 100/200 meters, you can admire a mosque, and although they may appear similar, each one is unique and breathtaking.

The intricate, maze-like streets of Istanbul made orientation difficult without the internet. The city, like Rome, is built on seven hills and is packed with thousands of cars, scooters, motorcycles, buses, and vans, plus pedestrians who cross even when the traffic light is red.

After reaching my hotel, I connected to Wi-Fi, refreshed myself, and went out to dine at Tarihi Hocapaşa Lokantaları, where I enjoyed typical kofta, similar to meatballs. Due to fatigue and the city's vastness, I decided to get a SIM card for internet access.

Unlike most blogs recommending buying one from the airport's three national providers, I suggest stopping by a local phone shop to get a data-only SIM without registration or documentation hassle. Exhausted, I returned to the hotel at 10 pm to rest and recharge for the next day.

The hotel was budget-friendly, offering a private room with an ensuite bathroom, and despite minor details, I couldn't complain.

Starting the Tour

The next day, I followed the itinerary I had prepared. The first day was spent mainly visiting the main attractions (listed below). Entrance fees for many places were around 11 euros each, but with the Tourist Card, which costs 36/55 euros depending on the attractions and duration, you can visit almost all of them.

Unfortunately, I hadn't checked the opening hours in advance, so I decided to roam the streets and photograph whatever caught my eye. Istanbul is a city of constant ups and downs, so comfortable shoes are a must (no heels or wedges).

On the second day, my knee gave out, and I had to rely on public transport, which I recommend using from the beginning. To enter Turkey as a tourist, you need to fill out an online form to obtain an HES code (in addition to a negative PCR test or a COVID vaccination certificate), which will be requested at the airport. T

o use public transport, you must also get an Istanbul Kart, available from the automatic machines for 10 TL, which you can then link to your HES code online. At every tram or metro stop, there's personnel to help you find the link, or you can ask the hotel reception. However, be prepared for changing procedures over time. Unfortunately, during my visit, the country was about to enter another lockdown, so on Friday nights after 10 pm, most places were closed outside tourist areas, and I missed experiencing the nightlife fully.

Normally, the lively nightlife can be found around the Galata Tower or in the Besiktas area, as well as in tourist hotspots like Fatih. Uskudar also seemed to have some activity. For those who prefer more residential areas, I recommend exploring the Moda area near the Fenerbahce stadium, full of local cafes and restaurants.

On Sunday, my last day, after exploring around and finding most places closed, I returned to the Hagia Sophia area, where there are bars and restaurants. I enjoyed a Turkish coffee on a terrace with a view before heading back to my hotel's vicinity, where I had dinner the night before. I highly recommend the RooF Mezze 360 restaurant; make a reservation if you plan to visit on Fridays or Saturdays.

Other recommended terraces I didn't get to visit include Terrace 41, Monkey Istanbul, Mikla Rooftop Bar, and 360 Panorama Restaurant.

Where to Stay

In the Fatih area, specifically Hocapasa, there are numerous hotels well-connected to every part of the city, even on foot. For shorter stays (2/3 days), Cağaloğlu and Beyoğlu, near Şişhane metro station, are also good choices.

For longer stays, there's a wide range of options, depending on whether you'll explore only Istanbul or other regions in the country.

What to See

The image below represents the basic route I created to see the attractions. Please note that Google's 3 hours and 18 minutes estimation is indicative. Here is a list of the main attractions:

• Hagia Sophia

• Blue Mosque

• Topkapi Palace

• Basilica Cistern

• Grand Bazaar (the ancient one)

• Şehzade Mosque

• Süleymaniye Mosque

• Galata Tower

• Istiklal Street

• Dolmabahce Palace

• Pammakaristos Church (Chora)

• Bosphorus Boat Tour Cruise

• Eyüp Sultan Mosque

• Zeyrek Mosque (Molla Zeyrek Camii)

• Ortakoy

• Moda

Please consider tourist cards for reduced fees and guided tours for a more enriching experience. Note that some places might have restricted access during certain periods.

Practical Tips

1. Allow an extra hour for airport transfers due to distance, traffic, and document checks.

2. Istanbul is economical, and you can expect to pay between 30TL to 300TL at restaurants, depending on the place and your order. Using a TransferWISE card can help you avoid overcharges.

3. Earplugs or noise-cancelling earphones are essential, especially for peaceful sleep in noisy surroundings.

4. Don't forget wet wipes and hand sanitizers to stay clean and germ-free on the go.
   

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